Positioning
Furniture should be positioned at least two feet from any heat source,
never directly in front of a radiator or heater. If the furniture has to
be placed near a heat source then some sort of protection should be put
in place, such as an insulated or reflective barrier.
Dusting & Polishing
Dust frequently with a soft cloth, and rub up your furniture often to encourage a
hard skin to form and build up a good surface colour known as patina. Once or
twice a year polish thoroughly using a good beeswax based polish, polish
sparingly, and preferably leave overnight, before rubbing well. Do not use
spray polishes, as although they give a good initial effect, they contain
silicon which builds up a sticky surface and a large proportion of spirit which
evaporates quickly, taking with it some of the natural oils in the timber.
Dust & Humidity
Antique furniture needs to be protected from fluctuations in temperature and relative
humidity which can cause a great deal of damage and is costly to repair. Many
fine pieces of furniture which have survived for centuries in unheated
conditions can suffer major harm in just one or two winters of central heating.
The reason for this is that antique furniture is constructed from air-dried
timber and has a far higher water content than modern furniture, which is
usually made of kiln-dried wood containing far less moisture. When subjected to
low levels of relative humidity, it gradually gives up moisture to the dry
surrounding atmosphere and starts to shrink and split along the grain. This is
aggravated when underlying pieces of wood used in the construction are laid at
right angles to each other and then veneered on top. The carcass wood moves and
the veneer consequently tears and lifts and pieces may become detached. If this
should happen it is vital that these pieces are kept carefully, ready for
replacement.
Other typical dry air problems include cracking, loosening joints (where animal glues dry
out), drawers sticking, and doors warping and no longer closing properly.
Prevention is always better than cure and it is possible to safeguard antique
furniture from dry air damage by investing in a good humidifier which will help
maintain a constant level of relative humidity in the air during the winter
heating season. For a normal comfortable, indoor temperature you should aim to
maintain 50-55% relative humidity. A cheaper alternative, but much less
efficient, is a hang-on radiator humidifier, or even a bowl of water nearby,
with a simple hygrometer to monitor the humidity in the room.
Sunlight
Another aspect
of prevention is monitoring the amount of sunlight that reaches furniture. A
degree of light over a long period can mellow the colour attractively, but too
much will dry it out, perish the surface polish and can lead to uneven fading.
Where possible, turn pieces of furniture around occasionally to even the fading
process and keep curtains drawn on sunny days when rooms are not in use.
It is wise to
make periodical inspections of furniture for lifting mouldings or veneer (which
will sound hollow if lightly tapped), loose joints, water damage or fresh
furniture beetle (woodworm) holes (particularly around May/June). If repair is
required, do go to a reputable restorer: Good restoration takes time and is
unlikely to be cheap, but a botched repair will not last, will never be
satisfactory and could reduce the value of your antique.